Iran is one of the earth’s final frontiers. It’s a country little visited by western travellers in recent years, yet it has been at the centre of world affairs for millennia. I wanted to take a peek “behind the veil” of modern-day Iran. What I discovered was a complex, incredibly hospitable people living in a much-misunderstood country at the heart of a troubled region. My journey takes me from the bustle of Tehran, via the Valley of the Assassins to ancient cities unchanged since Marco Polo first entered them eight centuries ago.